LAKE JACKSON, Texas USA — David Bachelder of QuickBurst is offering an e-match igniter alternative to those who need low-current igniters without having to go through the hassle of a federal explosives permit.

Bachelder's pre-soldered e-match heads feature 50 guage nichrome bridge wires soldered to a circuit board-style chip with a 12" wire lead attached.  According to Bachelder, the "50 gauge NiChrome bridge is exactly what commercial e-match maunfacturers use. I have bench tested with the Ozark Arts Altimeter and have been able to fire them with no failures."

QuickBurst's new pre-wire, pre-soldered e-match.

The Ozark Aerospace ARTS flight computer has one of the the shortest latch times, the amount of time that the firing circuit is closed and applying firing current, known, about .25 seconds.  The ARTS outputs approximately one amp over that timeframe.  Bachelder contends, "if it will fire these heads, any avionics out today will."

These e-match alternatives have no pyrogen as shipped—the end user will need to provide their own pyrotechnic initiator dips.  Since there is no explosive compounds involved, the product is able to purchased without an explosives permit and can be shipped USPS First Class Mail without any hazardous materials classification.

Use of the product is simple: check the resistance and continuity of the e-match, apply pyrogen, allow to dry and then fly.  Bachelder states the e-match should return a 1 to 2 ohm resistance.  As shipped, the product will not ignite pyrotechnic powders without assistance from a pyrogen dip.  You can add your own pyrogen mixture or use QuickBurst's formula below:

QuickBurst's pyrotechnic primer and pyrogen formula:

• Make or purchase nitrocellulose lacquer (5% solution is recommended).
  
• To five grams of finely divided potassium chlorate (200 mesh or less);
• Add nitrocellulose lacquer to achieve syrup consistency.
• Add five grams antimony trisulfide (200 mesh or less).
• Stir gently until a smooth homogenous mixture is obtained.
  Add more nitrocellulose lacquer to maintain a syrup consistency or thin as needed with acetone.
• Coat tip of match head with primer 1/32 to 1/16”. 
• Allow to dry one hour.
  
• Prepare pyrotechnic mixture of 75% potassium chlorate and 25% charcoal (airfloat).
• Dip primed match head into pyrotechnic mixture about 1/2 way up the chip.
• Hang to dry overnight.
• Follow up with a quick dip into the nitrocellulose lacquer and hang up to dry four hours.
  
• The last dip will add a protective coating.

Website: http://www.quickburst.net

02-07-2007 01:00 AM  #1
Steve_Shannon When in doubt, ask Keenan   Joined: Aug 2006 Posts: 1988	From the web site, the price is $9 for a pack of 10. Shipping is an additional $3 for the first pack. I would be interested if I could buy 100 for $50. Otherwise I think I can just build my own and save some money. I have my wire-wrap tool, solder that works on nichrome, and several feet of nichrome wire. However, mine will probably not be as consistent as these. If they are the same construction as David's matches except without the dip, they are good quality. If you don't have the right solder and the right tools and experience, this is a way to save money though.

02-08-2007 06:08 PM  #2
Rocket Flier Certified Level Three   Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 156	I'm not sure why the warnings were left off when the instructions were copied from Skylighter, but it should be noted that 'QuickBurst's pyrotechnic primer' is better known as dark flash, of which 10g won't be used in a single setting. I would not suggest hanging on to any or trying to reconstitute it should it dry out.

02-08-2007 07:59 PM  #3
Steve_Shannon When in doubt, ask Keenan   Joined: Aug 2006 Posts: 1988	Thanks, that's good to know. What other formulations can be used? I visited a manufacturer of igniters here in Montana late last year. He struck a Lunamatch e-match like a match against concrete and it lit right up. My e-matches are bundled in little rubber cups, but I would hate for the bundle of them to ignite due to friction. His match could not be friction ignited the same way. He was using a boric oxide based thermite compound on his. He claimed much higher temperatures.

02-08-2007 08:02 PM  #4
ddmobley Administrator   Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 3208	Quote: I'm not sure why the warnings were left off when the instructions were copied from Skylighter, but it should be noted that 'QuickBurst's pyrotechnic primer' is better known as dark flash, of which 10g won't be used in a single setting. I would not suggest hanging on to any or trying to reconstitute it should it dry out. I suppose that is a question for David Bachelder...

02-09-2007 03:36 PM  #5
Rocket Flier Certified Level Three   Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 156	Steve, I didn't perform a strike it test, and as some commercial matches come in a protetive tube, would suggest similar. I don't know of other formulas outside the Firefox book, but the one provided performs exactly as you would expect a daveyfire (in my tests anyway). Looking at Quickbust's site, I see the formula attribute was not made there, but in the above article. It does however go on to mention dissolved ping-pong balls as NC with a '?'. Make that a big '?' as the same formulas with dppb would not fire on 9v, but would on 1.5v. Can't remember why I tried the AA, but had 10 straight failures with the 9v. I didn't experiment much with the dppb to see if I could get them to light because the NC showed up and I was 5 for 5 out of the gate. $10 for real NC is the way to go.

02-10-2007 12:25 PM  #6
QuickBurst Certified Level Three TRA   Joined: Aug 2006 Posts: 53	Quote: I'm not sure why the warnings were left off when the instructions were copied from Skylighter. The formulation you are referring to was sent to me by a friend in the fireworks hobby. I didn't copy anything from Skylighter. I used the formula as sent to me by a member of "The Texas Fireants" a local pyro club. The formulation is common knowledge just like many others. These and many more mixtures are shared amoung people involved in the hobby. All chlorate mixtures are friction sensitive. Do I need to tell a guy to look both ways before he crosses the street? Anyone involved with making the matches should be aware of this. No offense intended. Ping Pong balls are disolved with acetone. I guess I should state this? Quote: It does however go on to mention dissolved ping-pong balls as NC with a '?'. Make that a big '?' as the same formulas with dppb would not fire on 9v, but would on 1.5v. Can't remember why I tried the AA, but had 10 straight failures with the 9v. I didn't experiment much with the dppb to see if I could get them to light because the NC showed up and I was 5 for 5 out of the gate. $10 for real NC is the way to go. Yup, use commercial NC lacquer. The Ping Pong ball thing is not a good. I suppose its a adhesion problem. The PPB's set up harder than commercial NC.