| First Look: The Heavenly Hobbies' Backdraft |
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Bungee jumping for the fainthearted?
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| Product Review by Dr. John Smolley, MD | |
| Wednesday, June 18, 2008 | |
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Steve Shannon has commented on the issue of CD-ROM-based instructions in the Brutus review. It's one of those personal preference items like whether you want your meat near raw or well done. I liked them well enough, but like Mikey, I'll eat my steak either and any way. It is what else that is on the CD-ROM, which makes this most ordinary looking rocket, well, extraordinary. Bundled with the usual kraft cardboard tubing, fins, chute, cone, and the like is software which helps the user to select two motors: one for the ascent and the second for the retrorocket firing. Thats right: A retrorocket firing that is timed and of sufficient impulse to stop a screaming, about to become rubbish, rocket dead in its tracks! Now if you're imagining the rocket to slow to a graceful stop, butt-end down, say like Apollo's Lunar Lander, guess again. This is more like bungee jumping. The two motors are on either end of the rocket, nozzles pointing north and south. Rather than use electronics in a traditional dual deploy arrangement, the Backdraft goes one step further in its effort to reduce drift by allowing the rocket to arc over at apogee, come in ballistic, and then ignite the second motor at a low altitude, braking the descent sufficiently to get the laundry out safely. Now when it comes to things like skydiving, bungee jumping, or out-of-bounds skiing, I must admit I'm a wimp. I love to watch others do it...but given a chance to let a rocket serve as proxy, sign me up. So it was with great anticipation I volunteered to do this review. The Microsoft® Excel®-based software included with the kit allows one to compute the optimal time for the retrofire and a compatible pair of motors. Generally you need one impulse class down from the main motor—for example, recommended pairs are D12-0/C-11-0; E9-4/D12-0; E15-4/D12-3. But the good news here is you are not limited to these motors, or even the Backdraft itself. With careful use of mass and Cd data, the simulation program works with any "nose motor" equipped rocket (or conventional rocket for that matter). With the Backdraft, the limitation on motors are twofold—the 24mm motor mounts themselves, and on the fact that the nose motor is lit by a fuse. A fuse you say? For those of old-timers, this is not so shocking or outlandish. In the old days, if you wanted to airstart a motor with a delay or the stages were widely separate, this is how you did it. Of course there were failures, but I don't know that the rate was that much different than with today's advanced electronic timers/flight computers. The stock safety fuse is capable of igniting BP motors only. But with the size/motor mounts of the rocket, there really is no call for anything beyond an Estes E in the nose. The Build: Interestingly, for a rocket of this size, the maker recommends epoxy pretty much throughout, including the use of JB Weld or another high temp epoxy for lining the inside of the hollowed out nosecone. The cone is subject to the heat of the fuse used to delay/ignite the retro motor along with the initial blast of the motor itself. It's retained by Kevlar® line and the chute is later deployed amidship using the ejection charge of the retro motor and a piston arrangement. The argument of epoxy vs. yellow glue is a horse that's been beaten to death on various forums so let's leave the flayed nag at the glue factory. Use either, but build strong and be particularly careful about selecting an adhesive that won't freeze during coupler insertions. I came very close myself to oopsing it here, even though the dry fit seemed fine. I chose to reserve epoxy for the fins, the fiberglassing, and lining the nosecone. (In retrospect, it may have been a better choice for those steps dealing with the cardboard couplers.) As to the instructions themselves, I was confused on a couple of occasions, but overall they are quite readable and the accompanying pictures were very helpful. In total there are 24 pages, with 1 or 2 steps per page. Omitted was any mention of the launch lug, I mounted mine near the flight-ready balance point. What would have been a nice addition (at least for the mechanically challenged like myself) would be the inclusion of an "exploded" diagram so that one has a good sense from the beginning of where all 40 parts go, and how they fit together.. But definitely, and not my habit, these are best read from top to bottom before starting the build. What wasn't clear to me until I got my hands on the kit and software is that the booster fin can is designed to separate before the retro ever fires. If you plan on using tumble recovery, build it strong. (I used 2 layers of light FG to beef up the tube, and epoxy fillets throughout the through-the-wall construction to enhance durability.) Which comes to my next point: there is plenty of cargo room within the fin can for its own recovery. So I decided to attach a high strength shock line to the fin can for two reasons. The first is that there is no reason (given you're careful in protecting the chute or streamer from the ejection gases), that the booster can't have its own recovery, and secondly by connecting it to the shock line of the top half of the rocket, one can fly this rocket in a conventional mode, leaving out the retro motor entirely. (For single motor use I would simply connect a short length of booster shock line to the cap covering the "sustainer" chute tube and untie the cap's tether. At ejection there should be enough force/momentum to pull the chute free as the booster separates. I haven't tested this, however.) Photo 1 shows the many, many parts in this kit are of very good to excellent quality. A few differ slightly from the pics on the CD assembly, but with care, will all fit together as intended. Photo 2 is a semi-exploded view of the rocket. The retro motor ejection charge is vented back toward the fins and uses a piston to eliminate the need for wadding. The chute deploys just rear of the second set of fins. A sleeved cap protects this end from the ejection charge of the primary motor. The lightly-fiberglassed fin can ready for prime coats is shown in Photo 3. This section separates from the rest of the rocket at the primary motor's ejection charge. The 95mm motor length ends at the leading edge of the fins, giving you an idea of the amount of room for a chute or streamer, versus the default tumble recovery. In photo 4, the left side, taken from the instructions, is of the aft end of the vent/chute compartment, showing the clever cap and tether arrangement that protects the chute from the primary ejection charge. On the right in the same photo it shows the mod I did: by drilling a small hole in the front centering ring of the fin can, I attached some of the surplus Kevlar in the same way to use as a shock cord for the booster recovery/single stage option mentioned above. Photo 5 shows the prepped rocket with streamer in place in the fincan. The hollow nose cone, shown in photo 6, has a groove in which the Kevlar tether is stowed during ascent. The attachment point is near the tip of the cone so it dangles along side the rocket during the retro burn. This will be lined with hi-temp epoxy to protect the fragile balsa cone from the blast of the retro motor. About the Software: First, I suspect this kit might raise a collective eyebrow in the rocket community—if not for the ingenuity of the product, from the standpoint of safety concerns. After all, what separates a ballistic core-sample recovery and a gentle, happy landing is a few inches of cannon fuse, a successful retro motor ignition, and math. Fortunately, the math is done for you in the spreadsheet: it comes with data entry for several Estes and AeroTech C-F impulse motors. By manually entering a small RASP-style data set, any motor not pre-entered can also be simulated. Prepping the rocket begins by selecting the motors using the included simulation program: The accompanying instructions are quite clear. The first thing is to select a couple of motors and deliberately pick too long a delay. That is shown in the accompanying chart. Impact occurs at about T+17 seconds. (Yellow curve is altitude, the violet velocity, and black, acceleration). This is the lawndart come true scenario: obviously 17 seconds is beyond the upper limit of the fuse induced delay of retro ignition. The motors used in this simulation were the Estes E9/D12 combo. The second chart reveals a situation we are also trying to avoid, that of completely overcoming the downward (negative) velocity and overshooting a near standstill to the point of a significant upward velocity. As cool as the bungee bouncing/pogo-stick flight might seem, there is one small problem with this: the fins are on the wrong side of the rocket! Stability will be maintained only while there is sufficient downward velocity. An overshoot beyond this velocity would most likely lead to some harmless skywriting, but it is at least potentially unsafe and one will lose style points. Ok, so what if we were to let it drop longer and therefore have a greater ballistic velocity to overcome. The results are shown in the next chart: while better in the sense that the peak positive velocity is not as great, this situation is also to be avoided. Going back to the bungee metaphor, if you want your bungee long enough to plunge within three inches of the ground, first ask yourself are you really that confident, the cord won't stretch just a bit more than predicted? Same here; the software assumes perfectly vertical flights under specific conditions with exactly so much impulse. Motors vary, conditions vary, Mr. Murphy (of Murphy's Law) has been known to attend launches. So please do yourself, your friends and any spectators a favor—take heed of the designer's advice by giving yourself a significant margin of error, especially in early flights or with unflown motor combinations. Remember the line about "there are old pilots and there are bold pilots, but there aren't any old and bold pilots". By now, it is hopefully clear that the D12 retro motor is just too big. So next step is to try a smaller impulse motor. The C11 was handy, as well as a recommended pairing, so lets give that a shot. In the next chart the improvement is readily apparent. The rocket brakes perfectly, only briefly showing any positive velocity. Lets see what can be done by shortening the delay. Voilà! In this chart, you can see we still have the near-perfect braking and at a considerably higher altitude. Consider it cheap flight insurance. The final screen in the series shows the H.H. Simit input screen. With the Backdraft kit, all data comes preloaded along with the advice to weigh your own rocket. Mine actually came in significantly lighter for the sustainer, and a bit lighter for the booster where I fiberglassed and added a lightweight streamer. What is not shown in these plots (and by no means necessary to the concept itself) is the separation of the booster. Given the relatively small number of choices in delay lengths, there is not a lot of flexibility here—one has three choices, use a short delay for a boosted dart effect, try to separate at apogee, or carry the booster well over the top and eject during the ballistic descent. I chose to keep it simple, and chose near apogee separation. (Also, I doubt that the Simit software would model any additional kick in velocity of the "sustainer" section, if the separate-while-screaming groundward option was chosen). Prepping and Flight: The next step which I did on the range was to measure the burn rate of the fuse. Here a stopwatch is needed and a few inches of fuse. Divide the time taken to burn into the length to get the rate. Should be something like 0.5 inches per second (about what the BATFE defines as deflagration these days ;-D) So a 14 second delay needs 7 inches of fuse. In the end I weenied out by figuring for about 12-13 seconds delay as I have enough gray hairs as is. Apart from that, sticking said fuse in a motor on the wrong end of the rocket, and stowing the Kevlar line in the nosecone groove, it's a conventional prep that went without a hitch. The other different aspect of prepping this rocket is the need to use two igniters, one for the booster motor and the second to simultaneously light the fuse. I didn't have my big range box where I keep sundry igniters, pyrogens, and BP. So unsure of how reliably an Estes igniter would work with Visco fuse, I opted to manually light the fuse. That way I figured there would be zero chance of worst case scenario: successful primary ignition but no joy on fuse. Plus, if for whatever reason the booster motor didn't light, I'd be close and have time to yank the fuse out of the nose motor. Otherwise one ends up with a humiliating static test. Phot 9 shows a closeup of the nosemotor with fuse in place and exiting via side of cone. The result is shown to the left. As I'm backpedalling back from the pad after ascertaining that the fuse had burnt to the 13 second mark, the Estes E wastes no time into coming to life. The rocket wobbled some on the way up—maybe because of a high polar moment of inertia/smallish fins (dumbbell effect owing to motors on both ends)—but skyward she went with some anticipated weathercocking (another reason I weenied a bit on the delay). The booster/fincan separated just beyond apogee, and the heart stopping plunge towards Terra Firma began in earnest. At about 300-400 feet up, my heart resumes beating when the nose motor kicks in and saves the Backdraft from certain death. That it "overshoots" a bit and does a brief mid-air thrash is easily forgiven. Few seconds later, we have the welcome sight shown in Photo 11! Only one small fly in the ointment—the yellow nose which should be dangling along side the rocket is nowhere to be seen. The clue as to why is here in this review, winners receive a years free subscription to Rocketry Planet. Discussion: Is this rocket sufficiently safe to fly? In trying to answer this, I looked at all the relevant safety codes and could find no reason to disqualify the rocket. Maybe on account of the fact I'm an old-timer, who has used real honest to God mercury switch/capacitor fired/flashbulb cannon fuse for airstarting BP motors, and seen it work, I wasn't as skeptical as some. No I have never flown a retro rocket before, but in the end, the relevant question is: does this rocket present that much greater a hazard than others we fly? Bottom line, I say, no. Sure it would be great and likely safer to electronically perform the same task. No different than deploying the main at 500', one should at least be able to ignite the retro at x altitude, or ideally x feet per second. But this is about adding a new twist to mid-power fliers who cannot or choose not to splurge for electronics. I would treat this rocket just as C.R.A.S.H. did—a heads-up flight, with an additional element of fire risk. As packaged, I'd say it makes the short list of all the under-F powered kits that truly were in one sense or another, revolutionary. If I had to prune that list to say six, they would include the Estes Astron Spaceplane (boostglider), the Estes Gyroc (helicopter recovery), the Centuri Hustler/Lil Hustler (designed for BP F engines), the first multiengined rocket/s (not certain these are right — Estes Apogee (staged) and Ranger(cluster)), the AeroTech Phoenix R/C rocket glider, and the Backdraft. Thats pretty select company. I picked those because each of these rockets opened up a new vista in sport rocketry, and yet none were particularly aesthetically appealing rockets. The Backdraft fits this bill entirely. It's certainly not about to turn heads sitting near your field box, in fact it's a tad homely. But as the rocket barrels in destined for certain destruction, just then, the nose motor kicks in, gracefully braking the banshee-like descent, and a few seconds later, gently floating under chute, she will most definitely turn heads when flown. One can immediately think of all kinds of interesting competitions based on the concept, and roaming into the domain of high power and extreme rocketry, maybe some applications there as well. I strongly recommend the kit based on high KEWL factor, innovation, and overall quality. And a definite strong thumbs up goes to Jose Andrade-Cora, the designer and proprietor of Heavenly Hobbies. Retro Rocket/Backdraft Background:
Now in fairness, this idea goes back at least as far as the 1970's when it was discussed in a rocketry magazine article. The first large public launch was at NARAM 1992, where Bruce M. staged a test flight in conjunction with his R/D report. Many have tried more or less the same approach with varying degrees of success both before and since, but never to my knowledge with quite this level of sophistication, and certainly not in a kit with integrated software. It was something of an honor for me to fly this at a C.R.A.S.H. launch. After all, this was Bruce M.'s old club and launch site. Sadly, Bruce passes a few years back. His legacy certainly lives on, and the Backdraft a fitting piece of such. I am sure Bruce smiled from beyond the Saturday my Backdraft flight took place. Source: http://www.heavenlyhobbies.com/ Have you used a product that you think would make a great Product Review article? Please This email address is being protected from spam bots, you need Javascript enabled to view it and let us know. For your contribution, you could receive free gifts from friends of Rocketry Planet. Please read the program details page for complete information. Microsoft® and Excel® are registered trademarks of Microsoft Corporation in the United States and other countries. KEVLAR® is a registered trademark of E.I. du Pont de Nemours and Company in the United States. Dual Deployment™ is a trademark of Adept Electronics in the United States. |
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I endorse proximate rocket operations!
I endorse kits with a vision!
I endorse old school fuse ignition!
Buy, buy, buy!
Just Jerry
I didn't see the nose cone in the "prep'd" photo (#5 either which I thought was odd.
-Murdock (Broomfield, CO)
The clue is in one of the photos, though.
The clue is in one of the photos, though.
I saw the fuse sticking out, there was just so much of it, it didn't appear as though the nose cone was on.
So, guess #2: Photo 9 it seems you have quite a bit of extra length on the retaining cord for the nose cone... perhaps too much and it got behind the motor fully?
BTW This kit has inspired me to try and make one of my own, in a slight different manner though.
I would suggest in fairness to the manufacturer, Heavenly Hobbies, that you start a new thread under whichever category fits best.
There really is nothing at stake here, so I will end the suspense. In photo 9 if you look carefully at the kevlar thread you'll see that it is fraying--I had sanded carelessly between paint coats and between that and tugging at it every which way, damaged the line. In cases like these, I usually opt for picture hanger wire from the hardware store--the kind that is in a thin plastic jacket. I don't think its a defect of the kit as kevlar yarn can do that.
IIRC I think the most corrosive adhesive to kevlar is C.A. Epoxy is used all the time with it and creates a very strong structure. Yellow glue, not sure on.
If thats still too much of a penalty drag wise, one could even recess the motor maybe 3/8" and put a small practically disposable cone on top--creating a biconically tipped rocket. Not something you see every day. Still need to route the fuse thru it.
terry dean
terry dean
I know that fuses are used for clustering and such all the time; as Steve says, as long as they are remotely ignited, they are fine. Staging? I am also not sure of, but in a conventional rocket fuse presents no additional danger than conventional blow thru, except in that it might have a hangfire.
Heretical as it seems, I'll admit to having used a lot of fuse as a kid--jetex type in a can. A lantern battery costs $3.00 which in the mid 60's was a lot of money for a kid (a new Ford Mustang was around $2000. A good salary was 12000/yr, and all candy bars, trading cards a nickle.). So a 35 cent can of jet-ex that could set off couple dozen of rockets was a pretty good deal; A C6 costs about 35 cents as well IIRC.
I believe the instructions should be observed, but in this case I felt it was safer to make certain the fuse was lit.